In a landmark moment for African gastronomy, two London restaurants with Nigerian heritage have received prestigious Michelin stars: Akoko and Chishuru. This recognition marks a shift in the traditional landscape of fine dining, which has often been criticized for its lack of inclusion towards African chefs and cuisine.
Akoko, led by executive chef Ayo Adeyemi, offers a culinary journey through Ghana, Nigeria, Senegal, and The Gambia. Their signature dish, cow tongue seasoned with suya spice and grilled over firewood, exemplifies their approach to showcasing West African flavors with sophistication. Adeyemi credits his mother as his inspiration and defines West African food through the classic combination of smoke, heat, and umami.
Across town, Chishuru helmed by self-taught chef Adejoké Bakare celebrates its own Michelin star. Bakare, the first Black female chef in the UK to receive the honour, offers a menu inspired by her Nigerian roots. She believes this recognition sends a strong message to Michelin to “start looking at the continent” and broaden its perspective on fine dining.
These accolades resonate beyond London. Parisian restaurant MoSuke, helmed by Malian and Senegalese-rooted chef Mory Sacko, received a Michelin star in 2020, demonstrating a growing international appreciation for West African cuisine.
This shift is attributed to several factors, including the rising global influence of African culture, particularly Afrobeats, which has sparked interest in exploring the region’s culinary offerings. Chefs like Georgiana Viou, whose Beninese-influenced restaurant Rouge in France also boasts a Michelin star, believe showcasing authentic flavors alongside more familiar ingredients can help change mentalities about African cuisine.
For both Akoko and Chishuru, the focus extends beyond simply serving delicious food. The restaurants provide an immersive experience, from the design elements reflecting West African aesthetics to the warm hospitality that embodies the spirit of “ajosepo” (community) in Yoruba language.
Both Adeyemi and Akokomi, the founder of Akoko, credit their mothers and aunties as significant inspiration, ensuring their menus pay homage to traditional flavors and cooking methods. While staying true to their roots, they present the cuisine in a way that is approachable to both Western and African palates.
The inclusion of West African cuisine by Michelin is welcomed by chefs like Curtis Mccalla, the Jamaican sous chef at Akoko, who believes it’s “about time.” This recognition paves the way for further exploration and appreciation of the diverse and vibrant culinary landscape of Africa.
As the lunch rush begins at Akoko, the team bustles with energy, fueled by the shared passion for showcasing the true potential of West African cuisine on the world stage. The sound of African jazz fills the air, setting the mood for a culinary journey that celebrates tradition, heritage, and innovation. The future of African cuisine in fine dining appears bright, thanks to the dedication and talent of these pioneering chefs.
Source: BBC
